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Pro flo fuel pump wiring no power to fuse

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  • Pro flo fuel pump wiring no power to fuse

    I bought this brand new Pro flow system 12 2017 thinking what a deal not knowing Edelbrock no longer cares about their customers like they used to. Its like sorry but we have a new $5000 pro flo 4 we'd be happy to support. Ok maybe $3500 but lame. The wiring is simple everything just plugs in and you supply run start power to the pink/blk wire which has a fuse then it powers up everything. The wiring diagram shows the fuel pump connected to 12v battery but the orange wire that is connected to the fuse goes up the harness there also an orange wire that is in the harness back to the relay that is supposed the powered on for the fuel pump. Relay has power from the pink/blk wire and the control signal is working from the tan wire but no power from the orange wire to fuse. Does anyone know where the orange wire that the diagram shows going to 12v battery but goes into the harness is connected at? Can I just connect power to that wire? thanks
    Last edited by intnstouch; 01-08-2018, 12:13 PM.

  • #2

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    • #3
      Relays are very simple devices. They take the place of a mechanical switch. So electricity controls them, generally from a electronic switch.

      Lets start with the control wires/connections first:
      They need a ( + ) and a ( - ) signal to control the relay, to switch on/off.
      The signal wires in the Pro-Flo system are the Pink/Black, and the Tan/White.

      Pink/Black: This is a ( + ) signal that comes from the ignition switch. More specifically. It is a wire that must stay ( + ) when the ignition key is in the "Run", and "Cranking" position. If this wire looses it's ( + ) connection, the ECU will turn off.......the 3 AMP fuse is on the Pink/Black wire to protect the ECU from damage.

      Tan/White: This is a ( - ) signal "from" the ECU. More specifically. The ECU gets a ( - ) connection from the thick Black ground connection wire. The ECU will send this ( - ) to the Tan/White wire when the system is ON.

      Notes: The main Black ground connection will be feeding a lot of components ( lots of AMPs ). So it needs to be solidly connected to the ( - ) of the battery.
      The Pink/Black needs to see a "clean" ( + ) connection when "cranking the starter", and when the engine is "running". Or the system will shut OFF.

      Now for the main power "into" the relay, and what it's output switches ON:
      There are 3 terminals on a relay for switching power ( there are special relays that are different, but I'm only posting about the one used on the Edelbrock system ).
      Terminal #1. This is called a "common feed in" most relays have it marked as "30". This is were the Orange wire with the 20 AMP fuse is connected "from" the battery goes. This terminal will "give" power to one of the other two terminals. But not "both" at the same time.
      Terminal #2. This is called "Normally Closed" ( or NC ). Most relays have this marked as "87a". 80 percent of the time, this terminal never has any wires connected to it. In the Edelbrock system it is not used. Specifically: This terminal ( 87a ) and the ( 30 ) are "touching each other" when the relay is at "rest" ( no power to the control terminals ). Hence the Normally Closed name it gets.....this terminal is basically only used for power door locks in vehicles.
      Terminal #3. This is called "Normally Open" ( or NO ). Most relays have this marked as "87" ( no "a" ). This terminal is connected to stuff you want to turn ON. In the Edelbrock system it will turn ON the following: O2 Sensor, Fuel Pump, Idle Speed Control, Injectors. Basically any thing connected to the Orange wire ( with out the fuse ).

      So. With the above information you should be able to figure out what is wrong with your system.
      Next time you post. You might want to vent less, and get to the point of your problem. I still don't understand what it is. All I got from it was you asking about jumping some wire. Which you should not have to do.
      <-- Do not click the BLUE boxes. They are a trap. You will be sucked into the Matrix, and never leave. The project in your garage will never be finished. You have been warned.

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      • #4
        The way my harness is made the
        Terminal #1. This is called a "common feed in" most relays have it marked as "30". This is were the Orange wire with the 20 AMP fuse is connected "from" the battery goes. The orange wire is looped and returns back up in to the harness and I can trace it past the ECM put can't find the end. my question is should I just cut it at the loop and hook up the one side that goes to the fuse and then to the relay and just tape off the other side. I also read in the forum that someone was putting together a list of parts that could be used to replace parts in the PRO FLO system do you have or know where I can get the list. thank you

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        • #5
          Originally posted by intnstouch View Post
          The way my harness is made the
          Terminal #1. This is called a "common feed in" most relays have it marked as "30". This is were the Orange wire with the 20 AMP fuse is connected "from" the battery goes.
          YES. THIS IS CORRECT.

          The orange wire is looped and returns back up in to the harness and I can trace it past the ECM put can't find the end.
          THE ORANGE WIRE THAT COMES OFF 87 OF THE RELAY FEEDS LOTS OF DEVICES O2 SENSOR, FUEL PUMP, IDLE SPEED CONTROL, INJECTORS. THAT'S ABOUT 8 "ENDS" YOU CANT FIND!?!

          my question is should I just cut it at the loop and hook up the one side that goes to the fuse and then to the relay and just tape off the other side.
          YOU DON'T CUT OR SPLICE ANY WIRES. YOU COULD DO DAMAGE TO LOTS OF DEVICES.....YOU FIND OUT WHY THE RELAY IS NOT TURNING ON, AND TRANSFERRING POWER FROM THE FUSE #30, TO THE MAIN SYSTEMS POWER WIRE #87.

          I also read in the forum that someone was putting together a list of parts that could be used to replace parts in the PRO FLO system do you have or know where I can get the list. thank you
          I AM THE PERSON WHO IS MAKING SAID LIST. DO TO THE FACT I DON'T WORK FOR EDELBROCK, OR RECEIVE COMPENSATION FOR BEING HERE. I WORK ON SAID LIST WHEN I HAVE FREE TIME. I'M MANLEY MAKING THE LIST FOR ENTHUSIASTS OUTSIDE THE USA, WHO HAVE A HARD TIME CONTACTING EDELBROCK BY PHONE.

          Done in caps, because I'm to lazy to hit the bold key.
          <-- Do not click the BLUE boxes. They are a trap. You will be sucked into the Matrix, and never leave. The project in your garage will never be finished. You have been warned.

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          • #6
            Hi I hope your having a great weekend . I guess I wasn't clear when I explained my problem. Starting at the fuel pump relay and going next to the fuse down the orange wire after the fuse the diagram shows it ending at the battery. I totally understand what happens if I was doing the reverse as in starting at the fuse going to the relay and so on. But my harness is like this starting at the relay going past the fuse my orange wire does not end it loops and goes back into the wiring harness and travels past the ecm . So I cant connect power to it because it has no end, I do understand you don't work for Edelbrock and thank you for helping those out side the USA that have a hard time contacting Edelbrock by phone. But those of us that live inside the USA have nothing coming from Edelbrock either because they no longer offer any support for this product. zip zero nothing And I understand so type in caps all you like. thank you again for all your help oh I pulled the fuel pump fuse and connected power to the relay side of the fuse protected by a fuse and so far it works just not getting power at the coil so I isolated the orange wire that goes back into the harness for now. It would be nice to know how to check for voltage leaving the ecm that going to the ignition amp then to the coil?

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            • #7
              My brain hurts trying to understand your English.
              Draw out a picture of the wiring "you" have. As it does not seam to be the same as the Edelbrock factory wiring.

              Note: The wiring diagram you posted is for the "regular" small systems. Only the higher powered systems, and systems that used none Edelbrock fuel pumps had a "seperate fuel pump relay". The relay in that picture is for the WHOLE SYSTEM.
              <-- Do not click the BLUE boxes. They are a trap. You will be sucked into the Matrix, and never leave. The project in your garage will never be finished. You have been warned.

              Comment


              • #8
                would you know what the voltage specs are for ecms 24, 25, 30 and how to check them thanks again

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