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Distributor for 3507 ??? Chevy 350/383

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  • Distributor for 3507 ??? Chevy 350/383

    Long story kinda short -

    78ish Corvette came to us with a previously installed Pro Flo 3507. This car apparently ran good enough to compete in Silver State at one time, but since I've been around it can barely get out of it's own way. Seems the power is/was/could be there, but now seems to "not be firing on all cylinders" in spite of our efforts, (and without spending much money/time in diagnosis). Erratic tach readings have apparently plagued this car for some time... Car forgotten for a while, other stuff to work on...

    Back on the project, attempting to get the thing working! Time to rule out ignition parts as an issue and replace worn out junk. Previous "welds" of the advance wings have cracked, probably because they were really just soldered. By the time I add up a new cap/rotor/coil and ignition module (no longer available), I'm wondering if I'm not better off replacing some major ignition parts, specifically ditching this distributor. In doing some research on the behavior of the car, it would seem that some/most of my problems might be attributed to the distributor "conversion" to the hall-effect sensor (no longer available). Quite a few posts seemingly support this viewpoint..??!!

    So, looking for input on which distributor I need for my conversion, and whether I should go the Edelbrock route or not. Since this is an Edelbrock forum, I suppose I know what the answer might be, which is fine. Also looking forward to hearing from those who might have done a newer (non-Edelbrock distributor) conversion, and certainly hope to hear from those of you who went the Edelbrock route.

    On the Edelbrock answer - looks like I have 2 options - 3674 or 3614.? Which of these do I need?? Also, looks like I'm buying an external coil with either of these distributors, what is the recommendation there?? Wanting to ensure that whatever I get I works with this older Pro-Flo. Any other parts that I'll need to consider for this part of the conversion??

    Thanks for your time.

  • #2
    Distributor is same as Ford TFI type.
    7 and 1 window. Uses a 3 wire hall-effect.
    You can get the metal vane from a ford 460 distributor on Ebay.
    slotted hall-effect can be found there to.
    You can stuff all the parts in basically any locked out need very little skills for this.
    Hall sensor will last longer if its mounted on some thing none magnetic....aluminum works.
    Tricky part is rotor need to mount the metal vane in the "sweet spot".

    Or. Yes. Just use a Edelbrock distributor...the ones for the E-Street 2 work.

    If the system has a ignition amplifier. It's a GM HEI module. 4 pin or 7. 1989 chevy v6 or v8 unit is the same. Use the special grease if you replace the unit. Around $50. At rockauto.

    ​​​​​I'm working on a cheat sheet for the Pro-Flo system. With part numbers, and other stuff. I should be finished by next Monday. 7 days.

    Edit: Here is the distributor you get the 7 pluse 1 from. I'll post it's dimensions tonight.
    Last edited by BITE_ME; 10-09-2017, 01:25 PM.
    In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.


    • #3
      OEM parts are all ways best to use.
      You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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      In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.


      • #4
        Issues with Tach signal and injection timing are usually associated with a failed or failing hall effect sensor in the distributor. When the sensor gets worn out, loose, damaged, etc. the signal that the sensor is sending to the ECU gets broken up or lost which can cause the RPM and injection time to be erratic or non existent.
        The distributor options for ProFlo EFI were a drop in Mallory or a hall-effect conversion kit. The Conversion kit is no longer available and since Mallory is no longer in business, we now offer an Edelbrock drop-in replacement distributor that works with all ProFlo EFI as well as E-Street V2 with Ignition control. For Small and Big Block Chevy's, use #3674.


        • #5
          "Erratic or non existent" is about what I'm experiencing! Thanks for the info. A couple of follow up questions:

          The 3674 claims to require an ignition box. Does my 4 pin ignition module (amplifier) count as the ignition box, or do I need something else?

          What coil is recommended for the 3674?


          • #6
            OK, gotta eat some crow!

            Luckily, before spending a bunch o' money, it is at least back to "running". All I can say is check and re-check your connections, especially your grounds. Duh. Anyway, thanks for the input so far, but don't go anywhere yet - although it runs, I don't think it runs well. Lots of vibration at lower RPM's, feels like the car might be running on 7 cylinders or so. I'm new to this car, but it apparently has run OK at some point in it's life.

            So, here's the question: Assuming a timing light hooked to each wire is a reasonable way of proving that I'm getting spark to each cylinder, how do I prove that each cylinders injector is working correctly and/or not plugged?? I suppose pulling each plug might help me, but surely there is a better/easier way?? Would the handheld unit complain if injectors are not firing or not firing correctly??



            • #7
              Google pretty helpful here. Sorry, used to those carburetor things - new to fuel injection issues. Welcome to the 90's!

              Seems the stethoscope test is a good one to listen for the injectors working/not.

              Resistance test on a per injector basis. Assuming stock injectors with this kit, what should I be looking for resistance to be??

              Light test on end of injector to ensure ecu is doing it's job.

              Any other tricks you can tell me??