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Timing won't stay locked.

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  • Timing won't stay locked.

    My timing will not stay locked at anything above 22 degrees. I had it max advance 32 degrees and had it setup to pull timing with boost. 1.5 degrees per pound of boost. I had a buddy of mine drive it while I watched the tablet. At 5500 39 degrees timing with 7 pounds of boost. The only place I can get it to stay locked is 22 degrees and it still doesn't pull any timing with boost. Is this a software problem, distributor problem or a user problem.? Car actually does everything well until it gets in the upper rpm. I have the limiter set at 6200 but have never seen it rev that high.

  • #2
    Part 1:

    Setup the hardware, and install the Calibration map:

    Home Screen
    Setup Wizard
    Start the Wizard
    Touch "YES"
    Forced Induction.........RED is a selected indication for YES
    Next Step: Firing Order
    Go by the numbers displayed...........this will get the injectors to dispense the fuel, sequential. Witch one did you select? Or is this a LS.
    Next Step: Engine Displacement
    What size do you have?
    Next Step: Camshaft Selection
    What is it's Intake Duration @ .05 Lift?
    Next Step: Fuel Pressure Selection
    This will only show "options" if a Calibration map is available.. Witch one did you select?
    Next Step: MAP Sensor Selection
    Witch MAP Sensor did you install?
    Next Step Fuel Injectors
    This will only show "options" if a Calibration map is available.. Witch one did you select?
    Continue and Load Base Map
    Splash Screen: Turn key OFF for 10 seconds, then back on,......... Calibration map, hardware setup, LS or not is now saved to ECU.
    Prepare to start your engine
    Warning Screen...... Touch the ✓
    Set the base timing if needed.....LS do not require this.
    Next Step: Idle RPM Control
    Set Idle Target
    Continue: Wizard Complete
    Touch "Finish" tile

    Part 2:

    Program the timing.

    Home Screen
    Advanced Tuning
    Spark Control
    Adjust the 4 settings: Idle Spark?, Advance?, Total Spark ( Degrees )?, Total Spark ( RPM )?.....? = What did you set these at?
    Arrow tile to next screen
    Set "Boost Retard", and "Vacuum Advance"......what are the set at?
    FINISH tile

    So that's how you set the ECU.........I think you might have changed the Calibration map, and some how the ECU reverted back to a stock MAP sensor.

    I would do a redo....Start with a fresh install.
    In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
    https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

    Comment


    • #3
      Will do, should I save this tune ? Everything about it is spot on except it cant control the spark in the upper Rpms. . Is there a possibility that a spring may be broke in the distributor and its lost it's ability to control the timing? It's odd that 22 degrees of advancement is the only place it will stay locked ? 23 degrees it would still advance out to 29 degrees .24-32 it would advance to 39.

      Comment


      • #4
        yes save that map if you like it

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mark S View Post
          Will do, should I save this tune ? Everything about it is spot on except it cant control the spark in the upper Rpms. . Is there a possibility that a spring may be broke in the distributor and its lost it's ability to control the timing? It's odd that 22 degrees of advancement is the only place it will stay locked ? 23 degrees it would still advance out to 29 degrees .24-32 it would advance to 39.
          The timing is done electronically by the ECU......it advances by what RPM the motor is at......No springs/weights in the distributor.
          In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
          https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

          Comment


          • #6
            Ah, I'm going to reload the tune and try it again. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can get it back out to the track or " Mexico ".

            Comment


            • #7
              Most web browsers let you save a web page as a PDF file.

              I would save, then print this Thread.

              Then fill-in the "?" that are in post #2 above.
              That way you have a record of what you have done.
              In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
              https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

              Comment


              • #8
                Round 2 same results. I guess I need to replace the ecu before I blow this motor it just wont lock the max above 22 degrees and never pulls timing with boost. I'm going to just park it the backyard and hopefully motivation will strike me again before the warranty is up. Thanks guys for the replies.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Mark S View Post
                  Round 2 same results. I guess I need to replace the ecu before I blow this motor it just wont lock the max above 22 degrees and never pulls timing with boost. I'm going to just park it the backyard and hopefully motivation will strike me again before the warranty is up. Thanks guys for the replies.
                  Have Helper video record the tablet, when the event occurs.
                  You email the video in for review.
                  Don't get too caught up in the numbers.
                  Just give the Engine what it wants &
                  Let the numbers be what they are.

                  Jim McFarland....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I would love to but don't want to blow the motor. It's already a miracle I haven't lifted a head or blown a piston. I might pull the charge pipe and try a NA tune..

                    Comment

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