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Runs great at temp, but stalls if I put it in drive before 185

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  • Runs great at temp, but stalls if I put it in drive before 185

    Mopar SB 360 in a 1978 Dodge Sportsman. New engine and transmission. EFI setup runs great, but I do occasionally get impatient that I HAVE to wait for the engine to get to 185 degrees before I can roll out. When I wait for 185, no problems shifting into gear. But, if I try to put it into gear before that, engine dies as soon as I try.

    I'm betting there's some fine-tuning I haven't gotten into yet. Hoping others might be able to help me figure out where to start.

    Idle spark is at 16, AFR at idle in high 13's, short FT is -1 to 1 usually. Fuel pressure is at 43, voltage at around 12.6 at idle.

  • #2
    Usually you get the IAC number in the single digits, and all becomes well...... Basically open up the throttle blades at idle.
    In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
    https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

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    • #3
      Cool! - When at idle at full temp, IAC is around 3-7%. What percentage should I aim during idle tuning so that it might run better when not at full temp?

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      • #4
        3 to 7 is generally ok when hot......some times if you plug the IAC when hot, then adjust the idle speed, you can get the IAC lower......your basically letting the throttle blades regulating the amount of air needed for idle VS letting the IAC valve do it.

        What is the IAC percentage before you get to 185?

        Also. Some times the PCV valve doesn't play nice.... basically plug the port going into the throttle body, and try putting it in gear.

        ​​​
        In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
        https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
          3 to 7 is generally ok when hot......some times if you plug the IAC when hot, then adjust the idle speed, you can get the IAC lower......your basically letting the throttle blades regulating the amount of air needed for idle VS letting the IAC valve do it.

          What is the IAC percentage before you get to 185?

          Also. Some times the PCV valve doesn't play nice.... basically plug the port going into the throttle body, and try putting it in gear.

          ​​​
          Sorry for diggin up an old thread but what is the remedy if the PCV is causing the engine to die when put into gear? I have a similar issue and my engine will die if the engine temp isnt 110 or higher. I have not yet tried removing the PCV for testing.

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          • #6
            You try a different PVC valve.
            ​​​​​​
            In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
            https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

            Comment


            • #7
              Does it go lean right before it shuts off? Could adjust the cold enrichment maybe.

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              • #8
                Cold enrichment is already maxed out for the temp range in question. For the PCV I have the adjustable MEWagner unit - in your experience does the engine want more or less air flow for this issue?

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                • #9
                  I would have to see a picture of the Digital Display. In gear, and out of gear to make any judgement calls.
                  In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
                  https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My (guess) is if it stalls when cold and put in gear then it’s most likely lean so less air would be needed. I had the same issue when I first started out with the system and ended up changing maps based upon idle vacuum and no more issues.

                    I’m only second guessing due to the statement of having the cold start enrichment maxed out.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jm73340 View Post
                      My (guess) is if it stalls when cold and put in gear then it’s most likely lean so less air would be needed. I had the same issue when I first started out with the system and ended up changing maps based upon idle vacuum and no more issues.

                      I’m only second guessing due to the statement of having the cold start enrichment maxed out.
                      I have thought about trying the next richest map only because when i first set up the system Peter had me use a map then add +30 to idle and cruise. The short fuel trims were still trying to add more fuel so perhaps a slight bump in map would help. I need to experiment i guess.

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                      • #12
                        If you are needing to add that much fuel, you should definitely try the next larger map. I had to do this with my engine too. I suspect my ported aluminum heads and hydraulic rolller cam breathe a lot better than what the map for my engine size is expecting. I had to pull a little fuel from the map, but it was only about -5. Personally, I'd rather be pulling 5% from a rich map than adding 20% to a lean map.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Atarchus View Post
                          If you are needing to add that much fuel, you should definitely try the next larger map. I had to do this with my engine too. I suspect my ported aluminum heads and hydraulic rolller cam breathe a lot better than what the map for my engine size is expecting. I had to pull a little fuel from the map, but it was only about -5. Personally, I'd rather be pulling 5% from a rich map than adding 20% to a lean map.
                          I think I might do that. Right now I'm on map 5024 for my 383 w/ 224/230 cam. It makes ~12ish vacuum at hot idle so I am very close to being in the 5025 map parameters. I'll be sure to save my 5024 map before the swap just in case.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by CMerchant View Post

                            I think I might do that. Right now I'm on map 5024 for my 383 w/ 224/230 cam. It makes ~12ish vacuum at hot idle so I am very close to being in the 5025 map parameters. I'll be sure to save my 5024 map before the swap just in case.
                            one of mine is kind of similar to yours… 396 stroker (like a 383 but with a 3.875 stroke) and a 230° intake duration. Vortec heads that have had a lot of port work done. 9-10 isg vacuum. I loaded the race cam tune and it was spot on from the first crank up. I bet that tune gets you close.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by mcbutterball View Post

                              one of mine is kind of similar to yours… 396 stroker (like a 383 but with a 3.875 stroke) and a 230° intake duration. Vortec heads that have had a lot of port work done. 9-10 isg vacuum. I loaded the race cam tune and it was spot on from the first crank up. I bet that tune gets you close.
                              That or someone mentioned trying 5029 who had a 385cid combo similar to mine. I'll play around with it this weekend and see if I get a better fit, and no dying in gear below ~110.

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