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  • 1st start update

    Ok, after realizing I hadn't hooked up the heater hose, running to the parts store to get more hose (different routing I chose is longer), and then remembering my timing light died the last time I used it... so another trip to get one (autozone was out so I had to get a harbor freight one ☹️), I finally started the car this evening.

    The good news is it fired up very quickly and idled pretty well even before adjusting the timing. I have a few things to sort out tomorrow:

    Three bigger issues:
    1. Timing bounces around a bit when my cooling fan comes on so I wasn't able to set it. I need to figure out why that is.

    2. My car never ran hot before, but even with the fan kicking on, the temp kept climbing. Not sure what's up with that unless it's running very lean?

    3. There's an audible tick or possibly exhaust leak but sounds like just one cylinder. At first, I thought a rocker was hitting a valve cover but I have a stethoscope and didn't hear it there. I'll check inside the valve covers tomorrow and also double check the preload on the rockers (I changed heads in this project too so could be one is off.). [This one worries me a bit because I had to measure piston to valve clearance and also pushrod lengths. I'd never done that before, but I'm pretty sure I did it correctly. And, seems unlikely that just one cylinder/valve would be hitting so if not a rocker hitting the valve cover, I'm hoping one of the preloads is off a bit.]

    Minor issues:

    4. I have a couple of hose drips to address.

  • #2
    1. Could just be bad electrical filtering on the timing light......hook it up to a separate battery if you have one....
    or park the wifes car really close, and use its battery.

    2. Some times you need to just drive the vehicle to get all the air bubbles out.......or jack up the front end.

    3. My dog hates ticks too.

    4. Around 60 inch pounds on the clamps is what most are made for.
    In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
    https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

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    • #3
      Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
      1. Could just be bad electrical filtering on the timing light......hook it up to a separate battery if you have one....
      or park the wifes car really close, and use its battery.

      2. Some times you need to just drive the vehicle to get all the air bubbles out.......or jack up the front end.

      3. My dog hates ticks too.

      4. Around 60 inch pounds on the clamps is what most are made for.
      RE #1 - Thinking similar. Here's my to-do list for tomorrow... I was thinking I'd try running the fan off a different battery, but running the timing light using a different one is way easier! Thx for that idea.

      Funny about your dog! Ours got tics once. No matter what we did, she kept having more. We finally found a nest of them in the bushes in our back yard!
      Attached Files
      Last edited by 302MGB; 04-23-2021, 04:25 AM.

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      • #4
        Good progress today:

        1. Hooked timing light to an extra battery,. It bounces noticeably less, but still moves around more when the fan comes a on than when it's off. But, I was able to set the timing and complete the setup wizard. I'm wondering if the fan is drawing too much power? It's a Volvo fan (same motor & blades as Ford Taurus). I haven't measured the amperage but Volvo used 12 gauge for the low speed wire and 10 gauge for high speed. They don't waste money so it draws serious amps. And I have a 1-wire alternator so it may not be kicking in to charge at idle revs.

        2. Cooling issue resolved. Radiator was only about 1/2 to 2/3 full so I figure the thermostat is fine and upper part of motor didn't fill till it opened. Refilled and held temp fine. I have a 190 thermostat and it was staying at 188 per the app (about the same on my gauge). I'll probably change to a 180 but if not I'll need to figure out if/how to change the temps the ECU uses to control the fans as with the default setting for fan 1 is lower than 190 so, the fan stays on constantly once imy motor gets to temp.

        3. 99.9% sure the tick is an exhaust leak at the bottom of the header flange at the head (opposite bank from where my O2 sensor is) somewhere around cylinders 3 & 4. Couldn't find it but pretty sure that's what it is. Need to figure out how to locate it. But will simply see if loose when it cools a bit.

        4. Fixed the leaks. Did notice the seal on my radiator cap is about shot so will need to get a new one.

        Net, so far, so good. Of course it's pouring down raining and I don't have a top on my car right now so I'll have to wait till this evening or tomorrow to take it for a run.
        Last edited by 302MGB; 04-23-2021, 02:29 PM.

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        • #5
          the best way to wire fans is to connect power for fan to alt then use a ground trigger witch take less amps. to control temp is better using a separate fan controller is the best with it's adjustable % of fan speed.
          Last edited by fleet man; 04-23-2021, 02:49 PM.

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          • #6
            Thanks. Mine is already wired with relay ground triggered by Pro Flo ECU. Load power is connected to my alternator (< 1' of wire) and 10 gauge ground runs about 2 feet to a ground connection point that has a 00 (e.g., very heavy) cable that goes about 4-5' to my battery. If there's a weak link in my fan wiring, it's the load feed because I don't recall for sure what gauge I used. I'm thinking I probably used the Volvo wire (because I'm also using the Volvo relay with it's connectors) so my bet is it is sized appropriately.

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            • #7
              Update on #3 - definitely a header leak at the flange by #4. We worked on the car we're building for my son all day today so I didn't have a chance to see if the header bolts are loose or something else going on. But, with the engine running but still cold I could get my hand down there and feel the leak.

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              • #8
                If some one invented a can of "Stop Leak For Exhaust Systems". They would be Zillionaires.
                In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
                https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

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                • #9
                  LOL! Probably right! I pulled the gasket and it looked fine so I put it back and re-tightened it. It's better, but still has a leak; will have to do it again. Am also going to do a search to see if there's a good exhaust gasket that's a little thicker than the Fel Prob1415's I have been using. I'm also going to double check the port sizes. I realized I never compared the new head exhaust ports to my gaskets or headers. I think they're ok because the left side isn't leaking big figure I'll check when I have it loose.

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                  • #10
                    I can help with your search for exhaust gaskets. Look at Remflex. They work really well!!!

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