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  • My427stang
    replied
    I certainly don't want to fight with anyone, but i ship engines all over and have roller cams ground all the time. Billy Godbold, the valvetrain engineer at Comp would not tell you that a melonized gear replaces a steel and an iron for every application, nor would the smaller cam shops I deal with. They would say "should or might work", "good option when unsure which core you have" , and maybe "if I had nothing else, worth a shot"

    I promise I am not BSing, I would gamble with a melonized before a bronze gear,, but if you know your requirement you should use the correct gear, it's good engine building.

    Leave a comment:


  • fleet man
    replied
    tried to tell them 2700 know's what the deal is.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2700 Cast
    replied
    Here , Here , Now......

    Cant we all get along????

    https://www.onedirt.com/tech/engine/...compatibility/


    " COMP Cams melonized distributor gears are designed to provide universal compatibility for any steel, cast iron, or ductile iron camshaft—but without the wear concerns of bronze options. They're less prone to wear, and feature better timing accuracy and higher strength than any other universally compatible distributor gears. Choose the shaft distributor diameter for your particular vehicle."

    LINK : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-435m/make/ford

    Leave a comment:


  • fleet man
    replied
    Originally posted by 408foureye View Post

    Wow, this isn't even worthy of a reply, considering you have to insult me. I'm not interested in wasting my time arguing with you but I can't let you spread incorrect information. The press fit is what holds the gear in place and keeps it from spinning, not the tiny little 1/8" roll pin. Would you blindly trust the opinion of a mod here and take it as gospel, risking to trash your engine, all because of a lousy gear? I chose the PF4 setup because it technically looks like it has a lot to offer, which it does but the distributor is worthless if it won't even accept a standard replacement gear.


    not trying to insult you trying to help so good luck with your fixed o r repaired daily

    Leave a comment:


  • 408foureye
    replied
    Originally posted by My427stang View Post
    The cam manufacturer should tell him what works for a gear, not the EFI guy. Edelbrock did a good job making a product that should work across many different cam cores, but in the end, they are not the cam manufacturer. It was a great effort, undoubtedly to reduce required kit part numbers, but as a guy who buys a lot of custom billet cams, I can tell you the cam companies are not as trusting with melonizing for a billet core.

    I did not realize that the Edelbrock distributor was not standard size, that surprises me. However, there are two options if it is .530 and not compatible with Howards cores.

    1 - Go with a bronze gear, I highly recommend against that on a street driven Ford, they wear horribly, for some reason Chevies can get away with them, but I have had cars towed in with bronze wore to nothing. Although I use steel with a steel cam, others don't and when they leave me, they have steel when the core requires

    2 - Buy a Crane steel at .500 and have it machined to the ID you need. I haven't done it, but unless it has a very small OD, but given it is steel and not cast, by gut says it'd work

    I do agree a roll pin isn't an issue, only time they really fail is when depth is wrong, then you can count how long they last in seconds or minutes. Ironically, most distributor manufacturers have you measure from the intake surface, which has NO bearing on gear depth on a Ford. A ford distributor sits in a block pocket, and the distance from that seat to the bottom of the gear is critical
    100 percent correct.

    Leave a comment:


  • 408foureye
    replied
    Originally posted by fleet man View Post
    i said FORD has had a roll pin for years and NEVER came out it to is a semi press fit. i have removed some with 80000 miles when i would have to replace the pick up coil and after replacement the pin NEVER came out. if you dont trust what the mod told you then sell the system and go back to a carb....
    Wow, this isn't even worthy of a reply, considering you have to insult me. I'm not interested in wasting my time arguing with you but I can't let you spread incorrect information. The press fit is what holds the gear in place and keeps it from spinning, not the tiny little 1/8" roll pin. Would you blindly trust the opinion of a mod here and take it as gospel, risking to trash your engine, all because of a lousy gear? I chose the PF4 setup because it technically looks like it has a lot to offer, which it does but the distributor is worthless if it won't even accept a standard replacement gear.

    Leave a comment:


  • PerBerglund
    replied
    Thanks for the inputs!
    Really strange to have an odd diameter on the driveshaft!
    I thought my MSD gear was compatible so I can forget that.....Machine it isn't a option since it will cost more than a gear.
    Will check the wear on the gear this winter....Howard has always deliver really good cams so I hope they are correct about iron gear

    I also notice quite excessive wear on the distributor rotor tip....Had a little to big spark plug gap so I closed the gap to 0,038"
    Anyway the rotor tip is quite thin...Thinner than MSD so it looks like it will need to be changed sooner due to wear
    Any had problems with quick wear?

    Would like to have spare parts info for both rotor and lid.
    Last edited by PerBerglund; 09-21-2020, 09:46 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • My427stang
    replied
    The cam manufacturer should tell him what works for a gear, not the EFI guy. Edelbrock did a good job making a product that should work across many different cam cores, but in the end, they are not the cam manufacturer. It was a great effort, undoubtedly to reduce required kit part numbers, but as a guy who buys a lot of custom billet cams, I can tell you the cam companies are not as trusting with melonizing for a billet core.

    I did not realize that the Edelbrock distributor was not standard size, that surprises me. However, there are two options if it is .530 and not compatible with Howards cores.

    1 - Go with a bronze gear, I highly recommend against that on a street driven Ford, they wear horribly, for some reason Chevies can get away with them, but I have had cars towed in with bronze wore to nothing. Although I use steel with a steel cam, others don't and when they leave me, they have steel when the core requires

    2 - Buy a Crane steel at .500 and have it machined to the ID you need. I haven't done it, but unless it has a very small OD, but given it is steel and not cast, by gut says it'd work

    I do agree a roll pin isn't an issue, only time they really fail is when depth is wrong, then you can count how long they last in seconds or minutes. Ironically, most distributor manufacturers have you measure from the intake surface, which has NO bearing on gear depth on a Ford. A ford distributor sits in a block pocket, and the distance from that seat to the bottom of the gear is critical

    Leave a comment:


  • fleet man
    replied
    i said FORD has had a roll pin for years and NEVER came out it to is a semi press fit. i have removed some with 80000 miles when i would have to replace the pick up coil and after replacement the pin NEVER came out. if you dont trust what the mod told you then sell the system and go back to a carb....

    Leave a comment:


  • 408foureye
    replied
    Originally posted by fleet man View Post
    all the ford distributor have a roll pin thru them. 2700 case is the mod that told you it was ok. i would trust him. and with this system you can watch the timing advanced if you see a fluctuation in timing it will be noticeable. then mark the dizzy and remove to check even at a mileage say 500 then check
    Are you saying its safe to try this because the gear has a roll pin? It only takes a few miles worth of engine operation to chew up the cam dist gear drive and spread a whole lot of metal through the engine. By the time the roll pin let's go, the damage has long been done. The gear on these new PF4 distributors are of unkown quality and metallurgy and trusting it to not ruin several thousand dollars of engine based on one person's gospel isn't something I'd be comfortable with. I doubt Edelbrock will pay for a full rebuild if it goes wrong and the gear failure takes out piston skirts, cylinder bores, bearings, cam, lifters and oil pump. If the supplied gear was actually made by one of the known popular brand names I would trust running it, but it looks to be a cheap Chinese gear supplied by an unknown vendor, so it would be a no go for me. I myself am currently in the same boat as this guy.

    Leave a comment:


  • fleet man
    replied
    all the ford distributor have a roll pin thru them. 2700 case is the mod that told you it was ok. i would trust him. and with this system you can watch the timing advanced if you see a fluctuation in timing it will be noticeable. then mark the dizzy and remove to check even at a mileage say 500 then check

    Leave a comment:


  • 408foureye
    replied
    The cam you listed is ground on a SADI core, which is basically hardened cast iron. Last time I talked with Keith from Howard Cams he mentioned to run a cast iron gear with this type of camshaft. In theory the gear on the Pro Flo 4 distributor is melonized and is compatible according to what one of the mods on here says. What bothers me is that they also recommend running the distributor gear and checking it for wear shortly after. By that time it can be too late and the damage could already be done, which could potentially cost you the whole engine. Im in sort of the same boat. Probkem is my Pro Flo 4 distributor has a weird shaft diameter which won't properly accommodate a factory Ford size ID gear. My distributor has a .530" OD shaft size and the factory Ford spec is .531", which in my case doesn't provide enough interference fit to securely hold the gear in place. You need at least .001" press fit to keep the gear from spinning on the shaft.

    Leave a comment:


  • PerBerglund
    replied
    Originally posted by My427stang View Post
    I am not countering the CORRECT information given to you by the moderator. However, I will say that a melonized gear is a treated iron gear, and often the cam manufacturer doesn't like them due variances in treatment and materials. That being said, it is very easy to swap to a steel gear for your cam, and at the same time ensure your gear depth is exactly in the correct location

    The way Ford distributors seat into the block, it is critical to have gear depth correct, most of the time, shear pin failure is due to the depth being off and driving the gear into the pad in the block, forcing the pin to fail. Edelbrock's gear on my FE was spot on in depth for an FE, but I have seen many Mallory and MSD slightly off (Mondays or Fridays maybe? LOL)

    Hope this helps
    Thank you!
    I am very careful person and in my work I am a engineer so checking information making sure thing are put together right is normal for me.
    I also doubled checked with the cam manufacturer and got confirmation an iron gear is working for my cam
    So I feel safe now!

    But as mention above it would be good to have information in the manual what parts are actually delivered.
    No part number in the manual and not even information on the distributor when I installed it.

    When buying a MSD distributor there is a huge tag hanging on the gear what it is made of and what cam it fits.

    Leave a comment:


  • PerBerglund
    replied
    Originally posted by Rickysnickers View Post

    I'm not arguing with you in any way, but I believe it is in the manual. I thought I remembered reading it there as I had the same question.
    I read the manual before posting here and there are no information...Not even part number for the distributor included in the 35950 kit I installed

    Leave a comment:


  • Rickysnickers
    replied
    Originally posted by PerBerglund View Post

    Thanks!

    Would be great info in the manual
    I'm not arguing with you in any way, but I believe it is in the manual. I thought I remembered reading it there as I had the same question.

    Leave a comment:

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