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Terrible drag strip performance

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  • Terrible drag strip performance

    Why, when launching at the strip, does the AF sp not go right to the WOT target? This thing is a PIG off the line and it is shooting for a 14.1 (my cruise target) even though tps is 100%. My 60's are .400 slower than before and I'm off by about 6 mph.

  • #2
    This : https://edeinstall.wpengine.com/wp-c...d_160715-1.pdf

    States:

    "Air Fuel Ratios
    Specifies the AFR set points at Idle, Cruise, and WOT conditions.
    ○ Idle is applied for RPM’s less than 1400 (Default AFR: 13.4)
    ○ Cruise is applied for RPM greater than 1400 and TPS less than 50% (Default AFR: 13.9)
    ○ WOT is applied for RPM greater than 1400 and TPS greater than 50% (Default AFR: 12. 8)"

    In the app:
    "Advanced Tuning".
    "Air Fuel Ratios".
    Touch the ?.

    States:

    "Acceleration load state is active when either TPS is more then 50% or MAP is more than -7.5 inHg."

    To see what state the system is in ( Idle, Cruise, or Acceleration ).

    In the app:
    "Advanced Tuning".
    "Fuel Modifiers".
    Touch the ? if you need help adjusting "this" setting.

    Note: The throttle body is a 1000 CFM unit. So race tuning ( being consistent ) might mean putting a vacuum gauge in the vehicle.....Think of it as a vacuum secondary carburetor VS a double pumper carburetor. You can never get a vacuum secondary carburetor to open when in neutral. Because there is no load on the motor.
    At 43,861 MPH Elon Musk now owns the fastest car in this Galaxy

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    • #3
      Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
      This : https://edeinstall.wpengine.com/wp-c...d_160715-1.pdf

      "Acceleration load state is active when either TPS is more then 50% or MAP is more than -7.5 inHg."
      So this means that the MAP is between -7.5 and 0 inHg or what?

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      • #4
        There has to be a major "load" on the motor in order for the criteria to be met for the system to go into acceleration ( WOT ) mode.....It's based on a 3D table...3D = RPM, TPS sensor, and MAP sensor.

        So.
        Yes.
        -7.5 to 1 inHg......It's actually very hard to go below 1.

        "Now is a good time to understand carb flow ratings. 2 barrel carbs are rated at 3 inches of vacuum and 4 bbl carbs are rated at 1.5 inches. A 650 carb on a 358 cubic inch engine will seldom see 1.5 inches but a 350 carb on the same engine will frequently see 5 to 8 inches. At 7 inches of vacuum the 350 carb is really flowing about 430-440 cfm."
        Link: https://www.camcraftcams.com/2-barre...%208%20inches.
        At 43,861 MPH Elon Musk now owns the fastest car in this Galaxy

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        • #5
          Bottom line is a well tuned carbs are usually faster at the drag racing then EFI. Forget about dyno numbers time slips are real world. My car was faster with a carb but I deal with it since it runs so well.

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          • #6
            It's tricky racing with a self learning EFI system. You need to come-up with a good Calibration map. Save it. Then when you get to a different elevation, make some changes if needed. You will also find that "Open Loop" is your friend.

            Edelbrocks Pro-Flo 4 system is the easiest/reliable, EFI system you can buy today. But it is not a racing EFI system. You need to go with a Haltech/Holley/AEM/ETC.....Those systems have all the "extras" that races like. But They are also the hardest systems to get working for the average person, and even some times experts bang their heads trying to "program" the extras.

            At 43,861 MPH Elon Musk now owns the fastest car in this Galaxy

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
              It's tricky racing with a self learning EFI system. You need to come-up with a good Calibration map. Save it. Then when you get to a different elevation, make some changes if needed. You will also find that "Open Loop" is your friend.

              Edelbrocks Pro-Flo 4 system is the easiest/reliable, EFI system you can buy today. But it is not a racing EFI system. You need to go with a Haltech/Holley/AEM/ETC.....Those systems have all the "extras" that races like. But They are also the hardest systems to get working for the average person, and even some times experts bang their heads trying to "program" the extras.
              You said the "H" word! I'd rather burn coal than buy a Holley. Sniper ruined me.

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