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Fuel Pump Not Working When Cranking

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  • Rays1969cud
    replied
    Originally posted by 2700 Cast View Post

    Mark,

    For testing try to jumper the Pink/black wire directly to the battery post. Then try to start engine.
    My car would not start all of a sudden, two day's ago. Read this , did this test. It lead me to a loss connection on my ignition switch.
    . It was easy for me to do the test because I had put a empty connection on the wire when I made the splice..

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  • fleet man
    replied
    watch this https://youtu.be/A0OMthoqHOI

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  • fleet man
    replied
    cleaning spark plugs has not worked sens the 80's replace is the best. there have been a few post of the fuel pressure sensor reading off check with manual gage in place of the sensor it will not effect the e c u

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  • bilodeaum
    replied
    Hello y'all!

    Sorry for the delay, have been pretty busy lately. So I indeed had to dry off the sparkplugs and the cylinders, as well as do an oil change because there was fuel mixed with the oil. I tried to start it but nothing. My latest and most successful attempt so far (engine made efforts but did not quite started) was when I raised cold start and cranking enrichment to the maximum. Fuel pressure was still at about 43psi when cranking. I did not try it much because I did not want to flood the engine again. Any suggestions?

    Thanks for the answers so far by the way, your help is much appreciated!

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  • BITE_ME
    replied
    Change the sparkplugs. They most likely got killed from all the extra fuel.

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  • bilodeaum
    replied
    Hello guys!

    I somehow managed to get the pressure fuel down to about 43.3psi when cranking. I re-did the timing to 12° BTDC. I think now everything should be as it supposed. But it still would not start... It is kind of discouraging. I would adjust the timing more precisely with a timing light but I can't get the engine to run. Right now if I give a little bit of throttle (about 30%) the engine makes some explosions but that's it. Any other ideas?
    IMG_0566.JPG

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  • Pcmdub
    replied
    Loosen the Distributor and turn it back to where you had it starting. Then, get a timing light and set the timing to 12 by following the instructions and locking it in the setup. Once you do this, you will feel a lot better because it will start and just need tuning.

    After it starts, then you can double check it is the correct map for your setup. Finally, reset all the values and go through each area a step at a time so you can back track if you get too far again.

    A few tips, (1) do not flash/reprogram the computer too much, you may brick the ECU. (2) keep a note pad with the changes (3) if you pressure regulator isn't working, you need to get a new one quick before you have bigger issues. If the pressure is too high for the map, the computer is going to try and trim the fuel until the O2 reads within range...that will be bad for a bunch of other stuff. Get a pressure reg for the fuel rail at the input side. Then you can be sure.

    Good luck

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  • bilodeaum
    replied
    I don't know if it matters, but I'm using MAP 5000 V65. I cannot get the fuel pressure down, even when the regulator screw is fully unscrewed, is that normal? As for idle target, I cannot change it, this value of 1053 was set by itself... Is there a way I can change it? I know I can when the engine is warmed off, but it won't even start anymore.

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  • BITE_ME
    replied
    Issues:

    Calibration map #5000, uses 43 PSI fuel pressure.

    Idle target for Calibration map #5000, should be around 650 RPM.

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  • bilodeaum
    replied
    Hum, I feared it had to do with the timing. It is my worst enemy ahah! Here's a picture of the display with the engine off/key on anyway. IMG_0563.JPG

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  • BITE_ME
    replied
    If you move it too far. Then the injectors will be off too.

    For ignition timing, and fuel injector timing to work. You have to set the "base timing" to 12 degrees before top dead center.

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  • Pcmdub
    replied
    I think you may have moved the timing too far for the computer to correct it. Go back through the instructions and set the timing with a timing light. Then get it started again and do not change the physical timing, the computer cannot compensate for you moving the timing from what it thinks it is set to.

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  • BITE_ME
    replied
    Could you please post a picture of the "Digital Display". With the key ON, but motor OFF.

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  • bilodeaum
    replied
    Hello guys!

    Little update: so I did as 2700 Cast as suggestedand guess what.. it worked! I managed to get it running at idle, adjusted timing until the engine was running smoothyl (tablet was indicating 16°), set idle RPM at 900RPM and and then everything was perfect. Or so I thought...

    I stopped it to continue working on it the day after. The next day, fefore I tried to crank, I adjusted fuel on cranking and tried to start it, but it would not start. I tried resetting what the ECU had learn but it did nothing. I managed to start it by giving about 20% of throttle, but it was not running great and stopped as soon as I let go of the gas. I could not get it to start again that day.

    Now, everytime I try to start it, I have to give about 20-30% of throttle. The engine will not stay at 900RPM no matter what I do. And, as soon as I stop with the throttle, the engine stalls and won't start again. I have to wait a couple hours before I can try again to start it, with the same results as before. It is getting frustrating... Any idea what it might me? Another thing that may be worth mentionning, I see the IAC is not at 70%. is normal to be that high? How can I change that value? Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks!

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  • 2700 Cast
    replied
    Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
    So it's the PINK/BLACK wire: This wire needs a uninterruptible 12 volts positive connection, that has power when the ignition key is running, and cranking.
    Mark,

    For testing try to jumper the Pink/black wire directly to the battery post. Then try to start engine.

    Leave a comment:

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