I think you may have moved the timing too far for the computer to correct it. Go back through the instructions and set the timing with a timing light. Then get it started again and do not change the physical timing, the computer cannot compensate for you moving the timing from what it thinks it is set to.
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Fuel Pump Not Working When Cranking
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If you move it too far. Then the injectors will be off too.
For ignition timing, and fuel injector timing to work. You have to set the "base timing" to 12 degrees before top dead center.In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
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Hum, I feared it had to do with the timing. It is my worst enemy ahah! Here's a picture of the display with the engine off/key on anyway. IMG_0563.JPG
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Issues:
Calibration map #5000, uses 43 PSI fuel pressure.
Idle target for Calibration map #5000, should be around 650 RPM.In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
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I don't know if it matters, but I'm using MAP 5000 V65. I cannot get the fuel pressure down, even when the regulator screw is fully unscrewed, is that normal? As for idle target, I cannot change it, this value of 1053 was set by itself... Is there a way I can change it? I know I can when the engine is warmed off, but it won't even start anymore.
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Loosen the Distributor and turn it back to where you had it starting. Then, get a timing light and set the timing to 12 by following the instructions and locking it in the setup. Once you do this, you will feel a lot better because it will start and just need tuning.
After it starts, then you can double check it is the correct map for your setup. Finally, reset all the values and go through each area a step at a time so you can back track if you get too far again.
A few tips, (1) do not flash/reprogram the computer too much, you may brick the ECU. (2) keep a note pad with the changes (3) if you pressure regulator isn't working, you need to get a new one quick before you have bigger issues. If the pressure is too high for the map, the computer is going to try and trim the fuel until the O2 reads within range...that will be bad for a bunch of other stuff. Get a pressure reg for the fuel rail at the input side. Then you can be sure.
Good luck
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Hello guys!
I somehow managed to get the pressure fuel down to about 43.3psi when cranking. I re-did the timing to 12° BTDC. I think now everything should be as it supposed. But it still would not start... It is kind of discouraging. I would adjust the timing more precisely with a timing light but I can't get the engine to run. Right now if I give a little bit of throttle (about 30%) the engine makes some explosions but that's it. Any other ideas?
IMG_0566.JPG
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Hello y'all!
Sorry for the delay, have been pretty busy lately. So I indeed had to dry off the sparkplugs and the cylinders, as well as do an oil change because there was fuel mixed with the oil. I tried to start it but nothing. My latest and most successful attempt so far (engine made efforts but did not quite started) was when I raised cold start and cranking enrichment to the maximum. Fuel pressure was still at about 43psi when cranking. I did not try it much because I did not want to flood the engine again. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the answers so far by the way, your help is much appreciated!
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Originally posted by 2700 Cast View Post
Mark,
For testing try to jumper the Pink/black wire directly to the battery post. Then try to start engine.
. It was easy for me to do the test because I had put a empty connection on the wire when I made the splice..
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