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Back fire out the ehaust Mopar Pro flo 4

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  • #61
    There's been about ten people that have posted something like this:

    "Edelbrock EFI sucks. My motor ran better with a carburator. Edelbrock needs to tell me what adjustment to make. Or I'm going to sell this crummy system, and go back to a carburator."

    They all had timing chain/gear issues, and once they we repaired, their motors "magically" ran better then they ever had before with a carburator.

    I've said this many times on this forum: When I get a new vehicle one of the first things I do is replace the timing chain and gears so I have a good base to start with.

    That article I linked to actually had some really good information on just chains.....I felt something was missing from the article. Like doing a test with just a new chain and gears. But the explanation of what was going on without a tensioner is 100% plausible, and they didn't have to do one.

    Some nitty-gritty stuff:
    On current factory motors with EFI ( actually all new motors are EFI ) the have "separate" camshaft, and crankshaft sensors. Most will trigger the Check Engine Light if the 2 sensors are not within "normal tolerance". More specifically when the camshaft has moved out of specification.

    The Edelbrock camshaft, crankshaft sensor is just 1 device. So it has no idea if the Shaft's are in phase......you need to switch motors, and use the Pro-Flo 4 Plus. Or convert the motor to LS triggers, and put the Pro-Flo 4 into LS mode to use separate camshaft/crankshaft sensors.

    But even doing that is pointless if the chain/gears are causing a phase issue.

    My point is:
    The system can only work as good as it's weakest "link".
    In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
    https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

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    • #62
      While I agree with the post above I DON’T believe this is why most of us “SBM” guys are having this issue. In my case for example both of my SBM engines do exactly the same thing at approximately the same RPM with approximately the same timing. One is basically a stock “340” no chain tensioner with 12K miles on it. The other is a MAGNUM based “408”. The magnum based one has 3K miles, the cam was degreed, and it has a chain tensioner in it. So in my opinion the sloppy chain theory doesn’t hold water with all of the timing issues.

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      • #63
        I'm running a brand new motor with a brand new rollmaster timing chain, cam was degreed when installed, TDC mark was verified on the balancer.

        I'm not running a tensioner, but I've had the cold start/tip in issues since the very first start.
        If there was slop in the chain, the trigger wheel would move along with the rotor, it wouldn't affect only rotor position. Trigger events would also be moved relative to crank position.

        It's running much better now, but CNP and ls crank/cam triggers would be great.
        Last edited by TurboGLH; 04-28-2021, 01:18 PM.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by jm73340 View Post
          While I agree with the post above I DON’T believe this is why most of us “SBM” guys are having this issue. In my case for example both of my SBM engines do exactly the same thing at approximately the same RPM with approximately the same timing. One is basically a stock “340” no chain tensioner with 12K miles on it. The other is a MAGNUM based “408”. The magnum based one has 3K miles, the cam was degreed, and it has a chain tensioner in it. So in my opinion the sloppy chain theory doesn’t hold water with all of the timing issues.
          I'm not a expert on SB Chryslers.

          So.

          Every thing I have posted in this thread is just general information.

          If I had all the distributors used in all the kits in front of me.
          I could then know, and post a picture of how all the distributors are the same......basically the relationship of the rotor, to the cam/crank sensor.

          But I don't work for Edelbrock, and I don't think their going to send a none employee a couple thousand dollars worth of parts.
          In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
          https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

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          • #65
            Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post

            I'm not a expert on SB Chryslers.

            So.

            Every thing I have posted in this thread is just general information.

            If I had all the distributors used in all the kits in front of me.
            I could then know, and post a picture of how all the distributors are the same......basically the relationship of the rotor, to the cam/crank sensor.

            But I don't work for Edelbrock, and I don't think their going to send a none employee a couple thousand dollars worth of parts.
            Fair enough, appreciate your position, thanks.
            Might be good if someone from Edelbrock chimed in and provided some definitive information regarding rotor phasing on these engines.
            Might also be an opportunity to improve the product offering at the same time too!

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            • #66
              Originally posted by Greg Spooner View Post

              Fair enough, appreciate your position, thanks.
              Might be good if someone from Edelbrock chimed in and provided some definitive information regarding rotor phasing on these engines.
              Might also be an opportunity to improve the product offering at the same time too!
              i think the person building the engine should make sure the timing is set up for the e f i system . if it is a stock engine then anyone that wants performance then you need to learn to center line a cam and how to keep timing steady and even for best performance.

              anyone wanting to install this type of system need to do research on how e.f.i works and foundation for e.f.i

              Comment


              • #67
                This exhaust thread is getting off-topic.
                This is closed.
                OP can start a new thread to keep things straight. Where is davecregar
                Don't get too caught up in the numbers.
                Just give the Engine what it wants &
                Let the numbers be what they are.

                Jim McFarland....

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