Lifting engine with PF4 installed

[Moparpete]

Awesome, thanks for the answer ddsmith, Much appreciated.

[ddsmith]

I used this port for fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference. All of the ports below the throttle blades are manifold vacuum. There really isn't any timed vacuum stuff like a carb would have.

[Moparpete]

Hi all.
I have got everything bolted down. The intake was a bit of work to get sorted as far as runner bolt clearance and also valve cover to injection boss clearance. I had a machine shop shave about 4mm off the outside of the injector boss so as to help clear the valve cover which I also used a Dremel to grind a little material back.
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The intake bolts that I ended up using were ARP Part # 652-1750. These are 3/8 x 1"3/4 for the outside of the intake runners. For the inside of the intake runners I used part # 652-1500. These are 3/8 x 1"1/2.
I did not have to scallop or grind any material away from the inside runners on ports 3 or 6. I did however have to grind a little off the shoulder of the bolt that was going into port number 3. That was the only issue. All of the rest bolted right in finger tight with no issues. I must of had that intake off and on at least 20 -30 times to make sure everything was going to fit. But when I was satisfied with the fitment of everything, I went ahead and bolted it down for good.
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I do have a question if someone can answer please. I need to tee in a rubber hose from the vacuum reference port of the fuel regulator to the Throttle Body, but i am not sure which two vacuum ports on the TB should I tee into?
There are two ports at the rear of the throttle body. One 3/8" will be for the brake booster, and the other I am not sure what that would be for.
There is one on the right hand side of the throttle body directly beneath the Throttle Position Sensor, and two at the front of the TB directly below the MAP sensor. One of those is 3/8 and will be for PCV hose.

I'm thinking to tee the one on the right hand side with the other at the front of the TB, but just want confirmation that this is correct.



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[Greg Spooner]

Regarding fasteners it’s no big deal once you work it out. For intake bolts use ARP 444-2001 (Small hex rather than 12 point which will allow the use of an open end wrench on Cyl 3 & 6 runners) On these 2 runners, just remove the leading, unthreaded section of bolt before installing, this will allow you to get some angle on the bolt and then line up ok as it enters the head. 30 secs with a die grinder fixed my distributor clearance and I had the sides of the injector bosses milled to fix the valve cover clearance. Also swapped the injector rails around so that fuel inlet/outlet was towards the rear of the motor. Motor is ready to go but still building my car so a little early for driving impressions!

[Derwud]

Awesome. I want to build something similar for my Wagon.

[LIFTER1966]

Great looking engine. Do what you have to and get it fired up!

[Moparpete]

Well I did a dry mock up of the intake today. Clearance issues as mentioned above will need to be remedied. The distributor clearance issue seems to be resolved but as a precautionary measure will remove some more material from that area also. Although the issues mentioned are a bit of a pain, i'm happy with the first fitment. With intake gaskets positioned all bolts apart from the 4 inboard runners snug down the holes without issue. Once I fixed the clearance issues and done a few more mock up installs, I shouldn't see any problems when its time to install the intake properly.

Set Up.jpg
.First mock up on stand.

Intake 1.jpg Intake Runner Right hand side inner.

Intake 2.jpg
On the forward runner.
Dizzy 1.jpg Distributor installed. Does fit snug but will clear some more material just to be on the safe side.

Dizzy 2.jpg With hold down clamp installed.

Valve cover 1.jpg Valve cover to intake clearance top view.

Valve cover 2.jpg
Right hand bank. Will notch the bottom lip of the intake injector boss to clear as well as the top section of the valve cover.

Valve cover 3.jpg

Left hand bank.

[jm73340]

Bite me, Thanks for the explanation and links.

While I can understand the complexity of these processes, the one problem that stumps me is the distributor clearance issue as there is way more material there than what is necessary. I’ve used multiple Edelbrock manifolds in the past without issue.

The inner intake runner clearance seems like a minor mod.

As far as the valve cover and injector boss clearance issue for others who may be contemplating installing the ProFlo 4, It will be an issue as it stands with the “LA” engine heads. I installed the ProFlo 3 on “Magnum” heads and there was no valve cover clearance issue.

[BITE_ME]

Hot Rod article from 2011: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp...l-block-mopar/
If you click on the pictures they talk about intake vs valve cover interference.
They don't talk about the intake bolts, but they do have a picture, that they did a very small amount of grinding.
Edelbrock 2815.jpg
It is the #2815 intake. #28155 is the EFI one.

[BITE_ME]

It takes a lot of time to make the molds for aluminum parts. There's testing, and more testing before they can be approved. They are always fitted to a motor. The test motor may not be 100% like the consumers motor. But they are always fitted to one. Here's a video on the volume of parts that are made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSAnE_8ECtA&t=163s

The distributor issue is a pain. Edelbrock intake manifolds are basically always custom. So. Some times none factory distributors ( i'm talking about the dimensions ) are used. Edelbrock sells a #22761 distributor ( for none Edelbrock EFI systems ) that was basically used in the design of the distributor for the Pro-Flo 4.
You can see that the base is grooved in on the #22761 vs the one with slight clearance issues. https://www.edelbrock.com/max-fire-d...-la-22761.html
The Pro-Flo 4 distributors need a different body, then the #22761 to hold the different electronics. But I assure you that all parts are tested and installed before they are put into production. It has even been stated that one of the test vehicles, had no issues installing the system......Yes it would be nice if Edelbrock made a video showing every system being installed. But it takes a lot of time to do that. Edelbrock does give units for YouTubers, and Magazines to install, because their proud of there work, and maybe they can help improve the products. https://forms.edelbrock.com/media-request/

Sorry if this sounds like advertisement.

[Moparpete]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Its much appreciated. "Bite_Me" I will get a engine leveler and use that instead of the lift plate.
jm73340 Thanks for the info regarding fitment issues. I was going to do a dry mock up install anyway in case there were issues. Will definitely look out for the bolt hole issues and also Dizzy hold down clamp. It really is frustrating to go through and do the homework making sure that the system will work properly for your application looking at reviews basing judgement on peoples experience, only to find out after the purchase that there could be issues that you weren't aware of and should of being corrected long before. Especially for international customers such as myself. I bought my kit through Summits, so I have a good customer relationship with them. I shouldn't expect any issues with the product but if I do, I know that Summits will be happy to sort any of those issues out as soon as possible.

[jm73340]

It's at a angle.
So. You would need a allen type stud to turn the stud in and out. Like this: https://www.belmetric.com/m8x125-coa...ck-p-6035.html

But to be honest. Why don't you guys just try a allen bolt. The head is much smaller, and I have put them in a drill, and ground the head diameter smaller....I did have to use a custom washer.

While that is probably a feasible idea, why does the customer have to deal with these issues at all? Edelbrock has known about the issues for at least 2 years when I let them know while installing my ProFlo3. My guess is they knew before I called. Manifold casting has changed and the problem(s) still exist.

[BITE_ME]

It's at a angle.
So. You would need a allen type stud to turn the stud in and out. Like this: https://www.belmetric.com/m8x125-coa...ck-p-6035.html

But to be honest. Why don't you guys just try a allen bolt. The head is much smaller, and I have put them in a drill, and ground the head diameter smaller....I did have to use a custom washer.

[LIFTER1966]

Is it possible to make your own stud to install in the head first and set the manifold on it?

[422Cuda]

Mopar Pete, Just an FYI..... Check for distributor and valve cover clearance BEFORE permanently installing intake. Hopefully Edelbrock has corrected the issue where the distributor won’t fit after installing the manifold.

Mopar Pete, jm73340 is correct. I just installed my intake on my Mopar 340. I could not get two of the inner intake bolts in because of the angle of the intake runners. Edelbrock tech support said they knew nothing of the clearance issues, but that BullSh*t. You could scroll through the posts and find people asking about the same issues. One of the moderates on here wrote on my post and added a picture of what others have been doing to fix the issue(pic # 1) it looks like a snail trail, and I still couldn’t gets the bolts in, I had to dremel a egg shape notch in the runner led to get the bolt down far enough to start the treads and then get a wrench on it(pic # 2). I had to use a dremel on the inside of two of the intake runners and on the back of the intake where the distributor is. Also, check to make sure your distributor hold down will clear, I had the Mopar Performance one and it hit the back of the intake. Your valve covers will most likely hit the intake where the fuel rail bosses are. The tech line will tell you to run spacers and not to notch your valve covers. I’ve only found spacers for a S.B. Mopar on EBay for $130, a little out of my price range