Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mounting fuel sump

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Mounting fuel sump

    I got my fuel sump system and looked at places to mount it, seems if I remove the heater box on the firewall and mount sump there it could work.

    However will heat from exhaust manifolds or headers (I'm thinking of adding ceramic coated headers) overheat the sump?

    Would try keeping it as far away as possible from the heat.
    ​​​​

  • #2

    Comment


    • #3
      Any room up front by the radiator support? I think that is the preferred location for most folks that have a high inner fenders like you.

      Comment


      • #4
        The sump definitely does not like heat. Not sure putting the sump where the heater box is would be a good idea - at least not without some heat shielding. I see a big open spot on the passenger side of the radiator - presumably for the battery. What's on the drivers side of the radiator?

        Comment


        • #5
          Yes, that is the battery location on passenger side, on driver's side there is horn and voltage regulator, and some other electrical boxes, the main wiring harness goes there.

          Also that area does not have a cut out that is flat on bottom like on the battery side, the inner fender coming over may keep pump from sitting low enough.

          Will have to move those components out of the way for a test fit, if it fits, relocate those somewhere else.

          I was thinking of putting under passenger side wheel well, right behind grille and headlight area, hopefully there no rocks or debris (it is only driven on public roads, anyways) would hit it.

          Was also thinking of putting inside bed of truck mounted at front passenger area, then make a shield for it for protection from hauling things.

          But then have to run extra hoses to and from pump, extend wiring harness, maybe not the best location.

          Maybe under the passenger wheel well behind headlight area with a bracket I would need the make.

          The mounting locations there have different heights, where the 3 bolts would go, why I am thinking of a bracket, for one even vertical mounting location.

          There may be some heat there, but not really so much from engine, exhaust, or radiator, just hot asphalt or concrete of Phoenix summer, which anybody who has spent any time in Phoenix summers knows, however that still should be much cooler than hot exhaust, or the air shedding heat it just picked up going through radiator.

          There is plenty of space in these old trucks engine bays, it's just hard to find a nice corner or somewhere flat.

          Any reasons that would be bad I'm not thinking of under passenger wheel well, behind grille headlight area?





          ​​
          Last edited by 1965C-10; 11-08-2019, 12:30 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            1965C-10, I installed the older style fuel sump pump which is a little larger than the newer ones. I located it on the driver's side where the original window wash tank was, 1966C-10, it is between the radiator and the horn.
            I turned the sump 180 degrees and it fit like it was supposed to be there. I plumbed the fuel lines under the radiator, return line back to the fuel tank, mechanical fuel pump to sump and the main fuel line like the original to the fuel rail. I placed the sump where I wanted it and manufactured all the brackets to mount it. Hopefully the pics are clear enough to give you an idea.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Spotted Eagle; 11-08-2019, 06:39 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              That looks like a good idea!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by 1965C-10 View Post
                I got my fuel sump system....... ​​​​
                Any chance it was for the "Get Fueled" rebate? I'm still waiting for mine....


                Comment


                • #9
                  Lyle, yes it was. I paid extra for certified mail.

                  After the the rebate forms were received by someone at Edelbrock, it took 17 days from Torrance CA, to San Tan Valley AZ (outer edge of Phoenix area) and there is no notification when it ships, so just have everyone be on the lookout everyday, as I'm sure you already have.

                  Before I mailed off my rebate forms, I called Edelbrock because I didn't get any paper receipts, just email and confirmation page, with confirmation number.

                  I asked how to do the rebate since it asks you to mail the ORIGINAL receipt in, since I didn't get a paper receipt, he said print out the email confirmation and mail that in with rebate forms.

                  He said after 4 weeks of mailing it in, allowing it time to get there, if it hasn't shown up, call them just to follow up to see if it has been sent out yet.

                  How long since you sent the rebates in?


                  Last edited by 1965C-10; 11-09-2019, 10:23 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    about 5 weeks. I called and they said "You've been approved". but that's all I know. I'd have paid extra for better shipping service - I didn't know that was available.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hopefully it shows up soon, looking back the day I mailed off rebates was Thursday Oct 10 (next day El Camino breaking bad movie came out on Netflix) and the pump kit arrived Thursday November 7th.

                      Tomorrow I'm going to go check out the area on driver's side of radiator for a mounting location.

                      Also need to buy spark plug wires including a coil wire, a coil, and new spark plugs.

                      Eventually swap to electric fan, it has a flex fan now I bought new for engine swap 15 years ago, seems I read somewhere those break and cause major damage.

                      Been procrastinating on header purchase, because I will need to run new exhaust, I've read you can use high quality clamps to put your own exhaust together without welding, I don't weld currently.

                      Truck needs new tires from age, they say every 5 or 6 years, needs new bedwood.

                      I may buy the O2 sensor clamp on bung Nate recommended, can always get headers and new exhaust later.

                      Question, will putting on headers and new exhaust later require tuning again, or will it notice a difference and update the tune on it's own?



                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The system runs in closed loop AFR correction all the time and when fully warmed up, is applying those correction values to a secondary learned fuel map. Unless you turn this function off, it's always active so yes, any changes made that will affect the engine's net airflow or volumetric efficiency that result in an AFR change will be detected and learned by the system.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X