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  • The Drive-by-Wire kit.......................

    Hello, Where is everybody ????
    Don't get too caught up in the numbers.
    Just give the Engine what it wants &
    Let the numbers be what they are.

    Jim McFarland....

  • #2
    so the forum format changed i don't like change on hear i will nee to learn more .


    so tell us more of this drive by wire you speek of

    Comment


    • #3
      I want to hear about this as well

      Comment


      • #4
        Is it "Plus", or is it "+". Mr Google would like to know.
        In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
        https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
          Is it "Plus", or is it "+". Mr Google would like to know.
          https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../edl-36120.pdf


          Pf4 +.JPG
          Don't get too caught up in the numbers.
          Just give the Engine what it wants &
          Let the numbers be what they are.

          Jim McFarland....

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by fleet man View Post
            so the forum format changed i don't like change on hear i will nee to learn more .


            so tell us more of this drive by wire you speek of
            https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-36140

            https://forums.edelbrock.com/forum/e...lo-4#post41286

            Don't get too caught up in the numbers.
            Just give the Engine what it wants &
            Let the numbers be what they are.

            Jim McFarland....

            Comment


            • #7
              Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 Plus is a engine management system that's plug and play with some factory/modified GM LS ( III, and IV ), Hemi ( 2005 to 2023 ), and Coyote ( 2011 to 2017 ) engines, that use drive by wire throttle body(s).

              LS base kit :
              Edelbrock #36130.

              Hemi base kits :
              2005 to 2007 #36150.
              2008 to 2012 #36140.
              2013 #36120.

              Coyote base kits :
              2011 to 2015 #36110.
              2016 to 2017 #36160.

              These are all BASE engine management systems that will need a fuel system ( vacuum referenced 58 PSI ), and donor, or purchased cables/harnesses, etc.

              No built in transmission controls. YOU must use a dedicated transmission controller.

              LS unit has 18 Calibration map's.

              Hemi has 4 Calibration map's.

              Coyote has 2 Calibration map's.


              Basically: Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 Plus is a drive by wire engine swap kit. That you control/adjust with a uncluttered Play Store App.
              In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
              https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

              Comment


              • #8
                Hmmm, I was hoping for an add on DBW kit to replace the cable or mechanical linkage.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You could if you have a cable operated LS motor.
                  In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
                  https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BITE_ME View Post
                    You could if you have a cable operated LS motor.
                    Lm7 in a 86 K10 Chevy truck. The cable sucks so what would you suggest?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Link to LM7 mods: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...e-performance/

                      I would get some donner parts from the junkyard/Craigslist.
                      Intake manifold with throttle body, and gas pedal, and what ever cables you don't have.

                      I've been seeing some brand new GM Superchargers on Ebay for $500.00 to $800.00 that could be grafted to the motor.
                      In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
                      https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        We have the PF4 installed on said engine....it works fine with the exception of the throttle itself....a bit wonky but returns to zero fine just not as crisp as we'd like it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hmmm. Crispy.

                          Usually if I get a vehicle I'll install a shift kit in the transmission, and replace the u-joints.
                          Then I'll clean out the cooling system. Replace the heater core, and radiator.
                          Finally do a compression check of the motor.

                          Then I make a list of parts that I know I'm going to replace/rebuild.
                          Complete gasket set.
                          Water pump.
                          Camshaft and lifters.
                          Heads rebuilt/Replaced.
                          Intake manifold.
                          Carburetor.
                          Distributor.
                          Plugs/Wire/Coil.

                          This gives me a nice clean base to work from.

                          Legally I've never owned a vehicle newer then 1981, or older the 1964. Their all 100% daily drivers.
                          So all my vehicle's are old. Hence most of the parts are economical priced to the point I generally have 1 to 2 spare motors, and transmissions for each vehicle I own.

                          End of social media post.

                          Crispy to me is a transmission that I've installed new clutches/plates in, and the tires break free in all gears.

                          Crispy to me is when you touch the gas pedal, and the tires screech instantly from a dead stop.

                          My point is:
                          You need to make sure that the engine is sound ( i would check for timing chain stretch first ), and that the transmission is working at 100%.

                          On to the EFI system:
                          The system lets you tune the fuel ratio, and timing from the front seat of a vehicle....back seat if it's a limousine.
                          All Edelbrocks Calibration map's are from actual running motors....they basically use either a stock motor, or one that uses Edelbrock RPM Series components.

                          My point is:
                          When I see some one posting that their motor is not running well 3 things pop up.
                          1. The motor was not in good running order to begin with.
                          2. The installation instructions weren't understandable enough.
                          3. The installer understood the instructions, but decided not to follow them.

                          Never do I assume a Edelbrock part is bad.......I have never seen any Edelbrock EFI part bad on this forum.....they only make the cast, machined parts......O2 sensors, TPS sensors, ignition coils are made by other companies. Edelbrock just picks parts that have a good track record, and includes them in the kits.

                          If the motor, the installation, and all the parts are working perfectly, and there's still that feeling that the motor is still not right.
                          Then it has to be that the motor is out of tune.
                          That's where adjusting the idle speed, fuel ratio, and timing from the tablet/phone comes in.
                          For "Crispness" I would start with the idle speed adjustment first.
                          You can adjust the ECU controlled idle speed from 500 to 2000 RPM...You still need to manually adjust ( throttle body idle adjustment screw ) final idle speed on None drive by wire motors.
                          When you put the vehicle in gear it will feel either week, or stoutly....if your running a stock type camshaft, it will always feels kind of weekly.
                          You shoot for a high enough idle speed that the transmission goes into "idle creep" easily when put in gear. Not so high that you need to stand on the brakes.
                          Once you find the optimum idle speed.
                          Then you can start adjusting the fuel ratio, and timing........if you download the E-Tunner 4 Plus the App has tips about the timing of various motors. Touch the "?" on the "Spark Control" page.

                          First clear self learn.
                          On the "Air Fuel Ratios" page adjust UP ( thats taking out fuel, or making it leaner.....actually your adding more air to the mixture ) by touching the + button under Idle AFR. Do this by .3 at a time.
                          If the motor starts to feel unsteady ( kind of like its mumming changed ) push the - button to subtract .5......this should work good for most types of gasoline.

                          Now you can adjust the timing. Basically you shoot for a high vacuum number.....you could do this in gear....it's actually fun doing timing in gear. You can kind of feel/hear the changes taking effect. You want to go 2 numbers down in timing, from your highest vacuum reading.....thats 8 taps on the - button.

                          Then run a couple of tanks of fuel, so the system can learn the new settings.

                          You can adjust Acceleration Fuel settings only after the system has learned the new settings for awhile.
                          You would start by taking fuel out ( "Pump Shot %" ), or add fuel depending on what the motor likes when you accelerate quickly.
                          "Shot Duration" is a -5 to +5 range ( that's only a range of 10 taps of the button ) and is adjusted to "complement" the pump shot......basically you try negative first, and adjust down, and up for the smoothest acceleration.

                          The only other tips I can give is make sure that the TPS, and O2 sensor are working perfectly.
                          In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
                          https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I think we got a bit off track with what I meant about "crisp"... The PF4 and engine are running very well. I don't like the factory style throttle cable feel / linearity whatever you want to call it.
                            I would like a more positive feel from throttle body to pedal if that makes sense? The cable issue was a problem child when we bought the truck so nothing new due to PF4 install.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Throttle cables either feel Floppy.....needs stronger springs, or the engine mount for the spring moved further away from the throttle body.

                              Or.

                              Their to stiff....needs weaker springs, or the engine mount for the sping moved closer to the throttle body.

                              Edelbrocks #8005 kit is easily bendable, to get whatever pedal feel you like.


                              If it's the spring on the gas pedal itself. That one cant be too stiff, or you will get leg fatigue.
                              Ace Hardware has a good selection of springs that I have used before to rebuild gas pedals.

                              If it's the actual cable feeling funky. I've used motorcycle cables before. The after market car/truck cables are to small some times, and I've had them break on me.
                              Some also come with crummy mounting hardware that give the cable a "sticky" feel when your driving.

                              Some times on long cable runs. You can twist the inside cable once before you mount it ( hardware already mounted on the ends of the able ) to the pedal, or the throttle body.....it gives it a different feel.

                              Other then the above. A lot of times people make/cut the cable too short the first time ( I've done that on 3 different vehicles ) and you can't get enough adjustment to lower the idle speed....tip: take the idle speed screw OUT when your mocking up the throttle cable.

                              All most forgot.
                              The bracket that holds the cable onto the intake manifold/throttle body really needs to 1/16" thick....I've actually welded up some 1/4" thick ones before. It's what I had laying around at the time.
                              In my neighborhood, if you open your hood to check your oil, and the vehicle still runs after you close it.......Then your labeled the Neighborhood Mechanic.
                              https://forums.edelbrock.com/filedat...?photoid=42773

                              Comment

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