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Car won't start

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  • Car won't start

    I have every thing hooked up...correctly I think, but the car won't start. The car did start and run perfectly with the carburetor on it before I started this installation.
    I ran the pink wire directly to the ignition switch, I have tested it, it has 12 volts when the key is on and when the key is at start/crank with no dropout between those positions.
    I ran the power wires for the computer directly to the battery.
    All sensors are connected.
    I have 45 psi of fuel pressure according to my gauge and the Setup Wizard says I have 48 psi.
    I am getting spark, the timing light flashes.
    I have the distributor set in correctly for the number one cylinder at 12 degrees BTDC. The thin blade is just entering the sensor and the rotor is pointing to the cylinder one wire. I even tried setting the distributor 180 degrees out for the heck of it, still didn't start.
    Looking from the rear of the engine toward the front, I have the Left injector wires on the left side of the motor (driver's side) with the number one wire on the front cylinder.

    What am I missing?

  • #2
    Good right up:

    I believe some thing might not be timed right.
    Even through the timing has been checked. I would rotate the distributor, as you crank (try to start) the engine.
    Did a motor last month were I had the plug wires 1 position off.

    What kind of engine is this.....So we can make sure about the firing order.
    At 43,861 MPH Elon Musk now owns the fastest car in this Galaxy


    • #3
      Bite_Me - Thanks for your help so far.

      It is a Ford 289. I have the firing order as 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 with the distributor rotating CCW.
      I will check my plug wires again this morning and try rotating the distributor a little bit.
      I should have received the unit with calibration I.D. 32200 the injectors are supposed to be 29 lb/hr injectors, and I am supposed to be running 43-45 psi of fuel pressure. It bothers me a little that the Edelbrock instructions have me go directly to the Setup Wizard and start fooling with that before ever starting the car, and I am worried that I somehow now have the wrong calibration or firing order for the injectors.


      • #4
        Injector firing order will not affect the ability of the engine to start and run. It will affect how well it runs at idle and low throttle openings.

        On the tablet when you crank the engine, do you see RPM on the Tablet? Does the Green checkmark disappear when cranking? Those are both indications you may have an issue with the voltage on the pink/black wire. Try hooking it directly to the battery as a test. The ECU has to have above 10.5 volts when cranking.


        • #5
          I got to thinking about the firing order of the injectors but I remembered that I checked the wire colors in the harness connector when I first got the Pro Flo 3 and they were correct for my firing order.

          I got it started, but I had to rotate the distributor in the advance direction about 55 degrees before it started to run slightly smoothly.
          I have checked the firing order several times, I have it right.
          The timing scale on the harmonic damper is almost out of sight. Now I started getting worried that the harmonic damper may be failing, it looks okay, so I checked the timing scale on the damper with the number 1 plug out, I can see the piston and TDC of the piston and the scale match. My cam timing seems to be okay also, both valves are closed at 12 degrees before TDC and the rockers are loose.

          So how do I correct the distributor being so far off?


          • #6
            I just started the car again, with the Setup Wizard running I was able to crank the distributor back to 12 degrees BTDC and the car was running and idling smoothly. I don't understand what just happened, but I think I am on the right track. I all of a sudden have a massive valve cover leak so I can't complete the Setup Wizard until I get that fixed.


            • #7
              If the thin blade of the metal shuttle wheel is on the wrong side of the sensor. Then the ECU thinks you "passed" #1 cylinder by about 26 degrees.
              So the plug wires will be off by about 1 position.

              The math comes out to 90 degrees off.
              At 43,861 MPH Elon Musk now owns the fastest car in this Galaxy


              • #8
                I finally made it all the way through the Setup Wizard.
                The only step in the setup that I have a question about is setting the IAC% between 5-20%, it is showing 0% on my tablet and does not change when I adjust the idle screw, does that sound normal?


                • #9
                  You've probably got the idle set by now or still working on getting it just right. I found not doing it by the book works. Engine warmed up I set the hard stop with the iac off. My cam makes only 10hg at idle in gear so I need 900 RPMs in gear for smoothest idle that burns the fuel efficient enough I don't get eye burn from the fumes. I set the hard stop in neutral to 900. I then set the target idle to match the 900 I set the hard stop at. At idle in neutral I get 6% and in gear it's around 50%. I can set it by the book mine is a first gen it says for automatic in gear 20% but when in neutral it jumps to 1300rpms that don't work for me. Iac speed for me works best at +30.


                  • #10
                    For those of you having a problem getting the car started for the 1st time like I did - run the idle screw all the way in, turn the distributor to the point where the engine is getting closest to starting (this could be 30 to 50 degrees) then jockey the throttle until the engine starts. I have done this procedure several times now and it works the same way every time.


                    • #11
                      If the dist. was dropped in correctly with crank at 12btdc, then there is no need to rotate dist when trying to start.

                      If turning dist. 30-50 degrees:

                      It only means the dist was installed with the narrow tooth not centered in the Hall effect sensor.

                      Redrop dist. and reset initial timing to 12deg btdc.

                      Hope this helps.


                      • #12
                        I installed the distributor with the narrow tooth just entering the Hall effect sensor, per the Edelbrock directions. Once the engine finally starts and is running really rough, I can rotate the distributor back to 12 deg btdc and it smoothes right out and the idle goes way up so I have to back the idle screw off.


                        • #13
                          All the Pro Flo 3 (and 4) distributors have the short tooth of the trigger wheel aligned with the rotor. You should see an embossed "1" on the distributor cap that notates the cylinder #1 terminal. With the rotor set to be aligned with the #1 terminal, the short tooth will be in the correct position relative to the pickup sensor. This orientation of rotor to cap and short tooth to sensor is how the distributor should be setup once it's installed in the engine with the crank at 12 deg BTDC compression for cylinder #1. Variance away from this will mean that your base ignition timing is off. Once this is installed and setup correctly, it should never have to be touched.