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how long for self tuning?

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  • how long for self tuning?

    I have the pro flow 3 system on a fresh Ford 352 FE that has a mild cam (219 lift). the biggest problem I have with this system is the consistency is not there. One time it will fire right up and no problems the next time it will crank and act like its not getting fuel or spark. all the time when i drive it if i try to step the throttle down whether quick or not it will back fire or just pop back makes a guy look like and idiot driving a fresh restored car that popping and farting going down the block. the instructions say that it need time to self learn but after a couple of weeks driving around town and back and forth to work probably around 200 miles it seems to be alittle better on back fire, but worse on initial start up. so bad that after taking 15 min to get it fired to go to work I then reset the whole thing and remove the intake to check for any issue such as vacuum leaks but found nothing. I have good fuel pressure right at 43-45 pounds. but this system seems to just do its own thing. spark plugs are black, if it run in the shop it smells rich. but the o2 shows everything is working and have a nice back and fourth rich lean change. I put this system on to make things easier but if i cant get it figured out i'm just going to scrap it and go back to carb. on issue that maybe help is i cannot get it to idle when i set the idle the engine will not stay close to 750 without having the iac at anywhere from 12-34% the idle should be a little rough with the cam but not enough to have the rpm jumping from 730-800. any thoughts or directions would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    A couple of things come to mind:

    1. The word "restored". When I see that word, and the fact the vehicle has been converted from a carburetor to a EFI system.
    My first thought is "not enough good ground connections". Or "Improperly installed ground connections".

    A flow chart of Ground from the battery:

    BATTERY ( - ) will have 4 connections.

    1st to ECU.
    2nd to engine.
    3rd to body.
    4th to frame.
    You might even have a 5th or more connections. Like a CDI box, or electric fans.

    This is way to many connections for a battery terminal... Or put another way. You can't "sandwich" more then 3 connectors at "one spot".
    You need a "distribution block", or a "dual terminal" battery for this many connections.

    The same goes for the BATTERY ( + ).

    2. It's a Ford.
    The "pink/black" wire that gets connected to the "switched power source" is often improperly connected on Ford's.
    You must make the connection of the pink/black wire, to the wire coming off the back of the ignition switch. No other place on the vehicle will do!

    The "switched power source" is a wire comming off the ignition switch. That has to have power in 3 positions:

    1st Position is the "RUN". This is when your not holding the "key", and the vehicle is normally "running".
    2nd Position is "In between the 1st and 3rd position". Or in other words....It has POWER in between RUN and CRANKING. It does not "break" the connection with the battery!
    3rd Position is the "CRANKING". Tip: it's easy to test, if you disconnect the connection at the starter.

    IAC problems.
    The manual has instructions on how to set it up. Page #6 TPS sensor in relation to the IAC. There are 2 different IAC's. Use the procedure for the system your installing.

    Ruff idle.
    A EFI system will "actually" smooth out a ruff camshaft.
    Page #8 of above might help.

    When is the system done tunning?
    When it's working 100% perfectly. You "save" your tune to your Email address.
    ​​​​​​​That way it is never lost.
    <-- Do not click the BLUE boxes. They are a trap. You will be sucked into the Matrix, and never leave. The project in your garage will never be finished. You have been warned.


    • #3
      BITE_ME is on point with suggestions. The main power and ground HAVE to go directly to the battery. The Pink/Black should be from the ignition switch or fuse box. When the car was restored, was the vehicle wiring harness and ignition switch replaced?

      The biggest indicator of how the system is performing is the AFR Correction. If it is more that +/- 5%, then something is not right or it is on the wrong map.

      The other big thing is how much ignition timing is programmed into it? Typically at idle you should be seeing 17-20 degrees BTDC and then another 5 degrees of vacuum advance.


      • #4
        Ok. will double check my grounds. I do have new grounds from the engine to battery and from engine to fire wall, ecu ground is direct to the battery. the ignition source wire is a constant run to crank source with no interruption or resistance wire. the only extra electrical devices on this car is the fuel injection and fuel pump. so no electric fans or cdi boxes to create electrical gremlins. I will watch the AFR and see what the reading is and as for idle timing it is usually sitting around 18 degrees. thanks for your guys feedback.